Valve clearances

Inlet - 0.05mm (0.00197in)  Exhaust 0.05mm (0.00197in).  Only check on a cold engine.

 
 

Engine oil quantity

2.7 litres SAE 10w/40 Mineral oil - we recommend Putoline S4.

 
 

WP fork oil level

With fork spring out and leg compressed, 120-150mm from top (Recommended - 130mm) SAE 5w/10w oil depending on rider's weight and vehicle usage.

 
 

Paioli fork oil level

With fork spring out and leg compressed, 180mm from top.  SAE 5w/10w  oil depending on rider's weight and vebicle usage.

 
 

Engine oil change guide

Rotax motors hold approximately 2.4 litres (some take up to 2.7 litres) of 10w/40 Mineral oil.  We suggest using Castrol Act-Evo GP, Yamalube 4-M or similar Silkolene product We have encountered problems with semi-synthetic and fully synthetic oils causing the clutch to slip.

When the engine is warm, remove the sump guard (if fitted) and drain the oil from the sump and the frame. Have a piece of card at the ready to deflect the gush of oil into the drain pan! Then when empty, replace the drain plugs (using new washers) and the sump guard (if fitted).

You may have a clear in-line oil filter at the back of the motor (between the frame and rear of the crankcase). If so, remove it for cleaning or replace it if there is a lot of metal debris in it. When re-installing this filter, tighten the clamps (but not too tight otherwise it will crack the plastic). Put in 2 litres of oil then hold the decompressor lever in and manually turn the bike over a few times using the kick start lever. You should see fresh oil passing through the clear inline filter.

Start the engine and run it at fast tickover for approximately one minute (leave the filler cap off and you will see oil passing through the frame – don’t rev the engine) then stop the engine. Don’t leave it too long, but add further oil (approximately 400-600ml) into the frame filler to the dipstick level (if your filler cap has one) or until it is half way up the sight tube situated on the left hand side of the head stock. Do not over fill.

 
 

Clutch cable fitting & adjustment

Clutch cable fitting

Looking at the engine from the left, unscrew the small inspection cover nearest the front of the bike.  Slacken the cable at the clutch lever end and remove the barrel from the lever.  You should now have enough slack at the clutch end to unhook the inner from the operating are inside the clutch casing.

Fitting the new cable is a reverse of the above, beginning by inserting the inner cable through the hole in the top of the clutch casing and then by using a thin hooked pick you can locate it under the fork of the operating arm, then pull up on the inner cable from the clutch lever to fully locate it.

Adjustment

Remove the small inspection cover located nearest the rear of the bike.  You should see a 11mm head nut which locks onto a thread with a slotted head in the centre.  Slacken this nut with a narrow socket and insert a flat screwdriver into the slot.  Slacken this screw a turn or so and then turn in gently clockwise until you meet some resistance, back it off just less than 1/8th of a turn then tighten up the 11mm lock nut and refit the inspection cover.  Make sure that the inner part does not turn whilst tightening the lock nut.

There is a very fine line between having not enough free play, causing the clutch to slip and too much, preventing the clutch 'clearing' making it difficult to select neutral.